Famously known where I come from (Lesotho) as “Gauteng maboneng”, meaning “place of light,” this artistic inner-city area in Johannesburg used to be a neglected industrial zone. Over time, it became a lively hub of creative entrepreneurs, galleries, restaurants, and street art.
There are a lot of misconceptions about Maboneng, but it is actually a vibrant, fast-evolving place. It’s a bit unusual at first glance and maybe a little rough around the edges, but it’s an interesting mix of high-end loft apartments, artistic spaces, and authentic, bustling streets.
My first trip to Maboneng came with excitement and a bit of fear.
I was going to Sandton for my visa interview but decided to stay in Maboneng because I had always wanted to see it for myself. I didn’t know what to expect, even though I had been to other parts of Johannesburg — some maybe even scarier — but I didn’t let that stop me.
I managed to catch a ride with people from Maseru who were heading there in a private car, which already made me feel a little safer about the journey.
We arrived in Johannesburg early on a Friday evening, and you could feel the weekend mood immediately. Big busy roads, lots of lights, cars driving like people had somewhere to be. There’s something hypnotizing about arriving in Joburg on a hot summer weekend — a feeling like you couldn’t have chosen a better place even if you tried.
I got dropped off at Curiocity Backpackers and the feeling of belonging became even stronger. There was chilled music playing, groups of young people waiting to explore the city with tour guides, others chatting over drinks, and some playing board games. For a solo traveller, this environment really says, you belong.
Once I checked in and showered, I went for a cider and a conversation with the barman. It’s usually the best way to find out where to go — and most importantly, where not to go.
Before I knew it, I had made friends at the hostel and we were club-hopping through the streets of Maboneng.
It was incredible. High-energy streets, tourists and locals mixed together, outdoor seating in restaurants, live music in some places — a true cultural experience.
I will say this though: Johannesburg can be beautiful, but you can’t let your guard down. At one point, some locals who had joined us quietly walked out without paying their share of the bill. I noticed immediately and told the waiter so I could pay my part. It was a small moment, but a reminder to stay alert.
The morning looked very different. The streets were quiet in a slightly unsettling way. I usually use my mornings in a new place for short runs, just to get familiar with the area, but this time I cut it short. I wasn’t feeling safe, and I listened to that feeling.
Later that day, things felt a bit better. More people started walking around, more shops opened, and the place began to look more like the vibey area I had seen the night before but there was another incident.
I tried to buy coffee and a croissant, but the shop wasn’t accepting card payments. I went to withdraw cash at a nearby ATM. When I arrived, a man was standing there and seemed like he had just finished a transaction. A few seconds after I inserted my card and entered my pin, he came back and offered to help me. I said no immediately — ATMs are not the place to accept help from strangers. Everything happened so quickly, and I still don’t really know what went wrong. All I know is that my card never came back out, and my full balance was withdrawn. Luckily, that account only had 100 rand left, and that was all I lost.
I didn’t want to let the ATM incident ruin my day, so I kept walking and found a small coffee shop called Home of the Bean (HOB). It quickly became my favourite place in Maboneng. I spent hours there reading and talking to a very tall and handsome man called Katlego, who later showed me Soweto and taught me all kinds of strange and wonderful things about coffee and Johannesburg.
I also met a woman called Marta from Barcelona who was staying at the same backpackers. The three of us explored Maboneng together, and it turned into a really special weekend.
To this day, Home of the Bean is still my favourite coffee shop in Joburg, and Katlego and I are still friends.
Maboneng is a beautiful place — but one that asks to be handled with care.
It showed me that wonder doesn’t always feel soft or safe.
Sometimes, it looks like a place that teaches you how to move through the world with curiosity and care at the same time.
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